from the BonnieSphere

This weekend marks a special holiday, one that I was privileged to see celebrated last year in Phnom Penh. No, I’m not talking about Halloween (although I will certainly be celebrating that tomorrow evening in the Perche) but about the Cambodian Water Festival, or “Bon Om Touk.”

Last November I was torn. Should I go up to the city to see the Water Festival – complete with throngs of celebrating Khmers and curious toursists – or stay at Wat Opot in relative peace and quiet? My own curiosity got the better of me. After all, who knew if I’d ever have a chance to see something like that again? In addition, I knew that many of the tourists who would be there had bought expensive travel packages in order to participate; in my case, the investment would run to a $1 bus ride and a couple of nights in the hotel at $15 a night.

I spoke about my experience in a blog post last November so won’t go over the details again. But I realize that I never shared any of the photos I took that day, and so I thought this might be a good time to finally do so.

But before I give you the link to the album, let me give you a little background about Bon Om Touk.

Bon Om Touk is held during the first full moon of November, and lasts three days. The activities are mainly centered in Phnom Penh, but there are also celebrations in Siem Reap (near Angkor Wat.) Khmers come from all over the country to be in Phnom Penh during this incredibly festive moment.

During the three days there are rowing races, water parades with intricate lighted floats, fireworks and festivities (special food is prepared for the occasion; I loved the “ork ambok”, fried rice pounded and mixed with coconut and banana. Yum.)

The water festival celebrates several things, one of which is the reversal of the flow of the Tonle Sap River, which flows through Phnom Penh. At the end of the rainy season, the water in the Mekong River is so high that it backs up into the Tonle Sap River, and onward into the Tonle Sap Lake, where many floating fishing villages depend on the lake’s riches. It is only natural, then, that the Water Festival should also mark the official opening of the fishing season. (Not, I hasten to add, that anyone would refrain from fishing at any time whatsoever, if fish are to be had.) The Tonle Sap Lake increases from 2500 square kilometers (during the dry season) to over 10,000 square kilometers after the monsoon season, making it the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia during this time. Interestingly, the reversed flow of the Tonle Sap back into the Mekong River, according to this website, “provides a buffer to the salt headwaters of the South China Sea entering the delta’s agricultural lands”, benefiting Vietnamese farmers.

Bon Om Touk also celebrates the victories of King Jayvarman VII’s naval forces, during the Angkor period (12th century) of Cambodian history. Historically, Cambodia depended on their naval prowess to defend their land, and Khmer kings used water races to promote military champions – an objective similar to that of medieval jousting tournaments. The competition was fierce, as the rewards were great, as they are today: winners of the boat races receive clothing, money, food, drink, rice, cigarettes…

“Bandaet Pratip”, or the illuminated water ceremony, begins soon after dark. The floats in the night-time water parade are prepared for weeks preceding the festival, and are sponsored by government ministries, state institutions and organizations. Toward the end of the day’s rowing races, the floats begin to take position on the river south of the city center, working their way around the last of the three-hundred-some rowing teams crossing the finish line. When it is fully dark, the procession begins. Boat after boat sails past a stand where the King presides over the event. (Note: last year I was seated along the river bank about a hundred meters from the King’s stand, which explains why my photos were taken from such a good vantage point.) Fireworks displays accompany the floats as they sail by, as does traditional Khmer celebration music, blared from loudspeakers for hours.

When the parade is over, the parties go on all night. The riverside is jammed with people, mostly Khmers, as the tourists have mainly repaired to places like the FCC (Foreign Correspondants’ Club) where they can observe the masses while sipping drinks on a second- or third-floor balcony overlooking the river. (I should say “I” rather than “they”… note the last photo in the gallery!)

Once again, please see last November’s posts if you’d like to hear about my own experiences during the three-day festival. For this year, I must console myself with memories… and images. Here is the album that I have put together of last year’s Water Festival. Enjoy…